Saturday, December 22, 2012
San Pedro, Guatemala
Sunday, December 16, 2012
Guatemala City
Guatemala City. Where do I start? We’re quickly learning that to get anywhere, you have to switch buses at least twice. If you ask the bus driver, or his assistant, if a bus goes to a destination, they will just say “Si!”. What they don’t tell you is that the bus only goes part of the way. When they drop you off at whatever drop they decide is yours because you have no idea where you’re at or if you’re even going in the right direction, they’ll point you to the next bus that will take you on the next leg of your journey. Then you ask the driver if that particular bus is going to your destination and they reply “Si!” and you think “Oh thank God. This bus will take us all the way there!”. Then that bus drops you off at some other random location that’s not you’re end destination and points you to yet another bus that will take you a little further. This “game” continues until you’re not really sure you’re actually going to make it to the place you’re trying to get to because the towns, as well as the streets, have no names. Just when you’re ready to give up……. you see a sign with your destination town on it saying you’re almost there. On top of that, they pack the busses as full as possible. I’m not kidding! Three to a seat plus however many people can stand in the aisles as well as people riding on top of the bus if their happens to be a roof rack. You don’t pay when you get on the bus, you pay when the busses “helper’ comes around to take your money. I have no idea how they keep track of everybody, but they seem to do a good job. I’ve seen these guys(tiny guys) walking on the seatbacks over people to make their way around the bus making change. It’s pretty ridiculous and insanely dangerous but you just go with it. That’s how we made it to Coban. As well as the rest of the towns I’ve been writing about. However, as luck would have it, there was a straight shot bus from Coban to Guatemala city. Despite it being packed, we were thankful for the direct route.
Once again, the bus to the capital city dropped us off, at
night, in the rough part of town exactly where our travel books tell exactly
not to be at that exact time of day.
Luckily, our hotel was literally two doors down from the bus terminal. We were very happy to get a clean room,
a television with some bad English speaking programs, and some hot
showers. Yessssssssssssss! Needless to say, we slept very well
that night.
The next day we decided to walk 6th Ave. In Guatemala City, 6th Ave
is kind of a promenade, closed off to traffic, full of shops, art, and
restaurants. We walked 6th
all the way to the end where it opens up to Central Park. This Central Park is nothing like
Central Park in NYC. This one is
much smaller and completely concrete.
Turns out, it’s where the city first started. The “park” is actually more of a square, parade ground where
they would do small military exercises.
The buildings surrounding the square are, or were, the capital building,
the courthouse, and housing for high ranking military and dignitaries. All in all, it was impressive in it’s
own right. And…… they were having
a Christmas festival! It was
mainly for the kids but still lots o fun.
They had a rock climbing wall, lots of craft and food booths, and even
an ice skating rink. Not something
you’d expect to see in the middle of a Central American country. Heck, we even got to see Guatemalan
Santa!
That night we decided to go to one of the major malls to see a
movie. We hadn’t seen a proper
movie in awhile and it’s a small treat that keeps you from getting homesick too
fast. When we got to the mall, it
was an even bigger treat than we had hoped for! Very clean, lots of shops including a book store, and lots
of fast food from the good ol’ U.S. of A.
I know, I know. We
shouldn’t be excited about fast food.
But it’s a rare treat to have some food from home when you’re in a
foreign country and everything just seems so weird and crazy and, well,
foreign. We took full advantage of the situation and even decided to stay
another day for another movie and even more comfort food. Don’t get me wrong, the food here is
awesome but it’s nice to take a break from it all with some Quizno’s and
Cinnabon! We stayed the next day
taking in more of our new land of milk and honey known as “The Mall”. However, getting to the mall the next
day was a little bit of a challenge that let us know two days in the capital
city was plenty. It’s as simple as
this. If it weren’t for the insane
amount of black car exhaust filling your lungs, Guatemala city might actually
be bearable. We decided to save
money and take the bus to the mall.
It was a safe decision as it was daytime and we wanted to do the “local
thing”. It took us a couple hours
and a little walking to get there but the major hurdle was not suffocating on
the never ending black smoke billowing out of every bus(and there are a lot of
them), car and motorcycle that passed by.
Seriously, our lungs actually hurt after about an hour. I think it’s safe to say that there is
no DOT or DEQ down here. That pretty
much sums up Guatemala City.
Stroll 6th Ave., see Central Park, and go to the mall. The next day we left the capital city
for the beautiful lakeside village of San Pedro.
Coban
Pools of Simuc Champay |
We made our way from Poptun to Coban. A decent sized town with plenty of day trips available. We stayed in a cheap hotel with a stinky, cold room that was so damp the paint was seeping off of the walls. Hey, it was cheap! The circus happened to be in town so we ended up going to the circus on our second night there. It was only$2.50 each! Not bad for some small town circus entertainment. They had some decent acts. Juggling, tigers, trained mini ponies, and........ the giant cage of death! It's a big metal ball that two people ride motorcycles in. We also did a day trip to some beautiful pools called Simuc Champay. We decided not to go there with a tour so it turned into quite the adventure. Simuc is about 8 miles past the last little town on that particular road. When we got off of the bus, we were immediately bombarded with people trying to sell us hotel rooms and rides to Simuc. One guy wanted to charge us 200Quetzals for a ride there and back. We took our chances and started walking, hoping a taxi would eventually come along. Sure enough, a taxi came along. Taxi ... meaning a truck with a cattle rack on the back. You just climb in the back and stand there until your at your stop. Pay the driver when you get out. It was only 25Q taking the taxi. Once at Simuc, it was a short hike to the pools and falls. We also did a 20 minute hike up the side of the hill to get a great view of the pools from above. The hike up the hill was actually pretty gnarly. Straight up. I definitely got my cardio in for the day! After hiking back down to the pools, we were ready for some swimming. We hung out at the pools for about a half hour. It was starting to get dark so we decided it was time to leave as we didn't want to miss the last "taxi" back to town.
We weren’t sure if we had missed the last taxi back to
Lanquin or not. So we started walking just in case. Nine Kilometers.
That’s a little over five and a half miles. We knew there was a little hostel we could stay at three Km
down the road just in case. We
made it all the way to the hostel and were in the process of asking them when
the last taxi came by when…..THE LAST TAXI CAME BY! Whew! We hopped
in the back of the truck and were very thankful for the rain filled ride back
to town. The next leg of our
adventure was hitching a ride back to Coban. Turns out we had missed the last bus back to Coban so our
options were to get a hotel for the night, or hitch a ride. We sat at the very end of town and
waited with another local waiting for cars passing by that were headed to
Coban. After an hour, we were able
to get a ride in the back of a small Nissan pickup with some guys that had just
sold some pigs in the area. It was
a cold three hour ride back to Coban but, again, we were thankful for the ride. AND, it only rained the last half hour
of the ride. I’ve got to hand it
to Nicole. She’s a trooper. It was her Idea to try and catch a
ride. I would’ve been fine getting
a hotel for the night. I think
that anyone else would’ve been grumbling the entire cold and windy ride back to
Coban but not her. She never
complained once. Not about the
cold and not about the conditions.
I was very impressed with her on that ride. After arriving back in Coban, we immediately went to the
Guatemalan version of Pizza Hut and ordered some comfort food. Then it was back to our paint leaking
down the walls hotel for some much needed cuddling and rest. We stayed in town one more day and
checked out the town a little more then headed to Guatemala City.
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